Friday, August 27, 2010

Search For The Perfect Primer

A few years ago, I had never heard of a makeup primer. But then again, I wasn't too concerned about visible lines, creases, mattifying power, that sort of thing. Once upon a time, wearing foundation and some setting powder sufficed, maybe a little moisturizer beforehand, if you were the type of girl who took extra time and care with your skin. Those days are long gone.

I used to think makeup primers were an unnecessary, superfluous item. That was until I tried one on. First makeup primer I ever got my hands on was the classic Smashbox Photo Finish Primer. Oh, and what a milestone! It's one of those things that once you try, you can never go back to being your old self without it. That stupid thing starts at $38 for a 1 oz. container but somehow it finds its way to the top of your grocery list.

Smashbox Photo Finish line now comes in a huge array of primers, with different formulas, shades, all designed for specific needs you never knew you had. They feel like heaven on your skin. Like your cheeks are made out of baby's butt. So velvety smooth, poreless, creaseless, flawless.

A good makeup primer works as a sort of canvas for your foundation, evening out your skin tone, texture, minimizing pores, lines and enhancing the staying power of your makeup. Although the premise for these primers is silicone (to smooth out texture and create that wonderful "velvety" effect), a lot of them are oil free and claim to be non comedogenic and won't clog pores. Still takes me some guts to buy and endorse a product which main ingredient is silicone, but for 38 bucks or more, it must be freaking good.

Which is why after my first Photo Finish trial - despite loving it to death - I couldn't stay faithful. I assumed there could be another makeup primer out there just as good or even better. These days, there are a lot of fish in the primer sea, especially at the place where I like to drop off my paycheck every other week, otherwise known as Sephora. Drugstore brands are still a couple of light years away in the primer department. So far, I think I've only seen L'Oreal market such product, but don't quote me on that. Without that option, one has to be prepared to cash at least $18 on such beauty marvel.

Here are a few primers that I've tried so far:

What it Claims: "Adds radiance to fair skin/ reduces minor imperfections."
Conclusion: Why did I waste my money? For $32 for a 1 oz pump-jar, I'm still wondering why I didn't return the product and exchanged for something else. I'm a huge fan of Make Up Forever, their eyeshadows are amazing, they have the best eye makeup remover in the Universe, but I still don't get the hype with their HD line. The blue color in the primer does help even out a little bit of redness, but not enough. The texture of the liquid is so not what I expect from a primer - it's no different from a lightweight moisturizer and this is not why I wear a primer. I still have a little bit left in my bottle; I'm an eternal optimist when it comes to certain products and I want to get the most out of every penny spent on that thing. Would I buy this primer again? Oh noes.

What it claims: "Prepares your skin for the most amazing foundation with this preservative-free foundation primer that's great for all skin types."
Conclusion: It's true, Bare Escentuals is the most amazing foundation out there. It should - and probably will - get its own 5 page post some time in the near future. But as far as makeup primers go, BE is just okay. If you're on (sort of) a budget, this is a good option (21 George Washingtons for a 1 oz container), but whatever you do, don't get the oil control version. It's terrible! Texture is just awful. Looks messy and sticky on the skin. Stick to the original flavor.


What it claims: "An ultra-concentrated primer that works to erase fine lines, stubborn pores, and other complexion imperfections—all while absorbing shine for a flawless finish."
Conclusion: Now this is a very specific primer. It's sort of a Photoshop for your face, once you're finished with all the makeup and everything. Texture is uber velvety, silicone concentration probably higher than Pamela Anderson's implants. They instruct you to use only around undereye creases, fine lines along the lip area, nose etc. I used it as an undereye primer before my concealer and what a big mistake! I had to remove all my makeup and start over. You're supposed to just pat over the fine lines (not rub), but even so, it didn't do it for me. You can wear OVER makeup, and that might work as a finishing "airbrush" touch for minor flaws, but I don't think it's worth the investment. I'm not a professional makeup artist and perhaps this product was designed for people who know what the heck they're doing, which is probably not my case. After two trials and repeated error, I returned the cute and pricey little tube to Sephora.

What it Claims: "The silky blend of vitamins and antioxidants smoothes and perfects skin, while the unique formula helps to inhibit the destruction of collagen, and fills in fine lines and pores for a flawless finish."
Conclusion: Worth every penny. Get it in the supersized or even travel sized squeezable tube instead of the pump because you will want to use every last drop of it. And then some. The texture is what a perfect primer should deliver: feels lightweight on the skin, makes pores way less noticeable, prepares a smooth canvas for foundation, dries out quickly, never cakes. Once you give this makeup primer a try you will know why this kind of cosmetic gimmick was invented in the first place.

What it Claims: "An oil-free, tinted foundation primer that multitasks as a skin perfector and an SPF."
Conclusion: This is the one I keep coming back to. Texture is very similar to Smashbox Photo Finish color adjust primer but with one added bonus: SPF 15! This primer has a hint of tint but goes on clear in the skin - believe me: I'm very pale. For $30 you get 1.6 oz, almost double the amount of most other brands market. Philosophy makes great products and so far I'm a fan. My pores become less visible, the fine lines smoother and it feels really good on the skin. My foundation already comes with SPF but I like multi-tasking products and this is definitely one of them.

I hear Boscia Skin Perfecting Primer is also very good and I might give it a try when I run out of my Philosophy primer. Boscia products are all natural, so if you have sensitive skin, it might be a good option.

A lot of cosmetic brands now have eyelid/eyeshadow primers as well - most popular one being Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion and most recently, Benefit's Stay Don't Stray. They claim to increase staying staying power of your eye makeup, making it creaseless, smudgless and all. Personally I think it's a little too much. If you prep your entire face with a primer, add a good concealer and finish off with some translucent powder, you should be more than fine. I work in a hot and greasy kitchen all day and my eyeshadow still stays put after a long shift. If you wear good eyeshadow and eyeliner, there's no reason why it should crease. I don't recommend wearing eyeshadow paste alone but under a powder or solid shadow, since the creamy texture is not made to stay on for a long time.

When it comes to primers, you should always wear over a moisturizer, whether primer will be worn alone or under a foundation. Primers are not made to substitute moisturizers, they are supposed to lay over your skin and not be absorbed by it. Even if you have oily skin, it's important to not skip the moisturizer step, since it literally helps balance the moisture levels on your skin, keeping water in and protecting your cells from free radicals, loss of collagen etc. I like Murad Oil Control Mattifier SPF 15. It acts as a moisturizer while seriously controlling excess oil and delivering SPF protection. I've used this product alone for a long time before adding a primer to it and it still helped my makeup stay put for hours while preventing my acne prone skin from further breakout. When I go out and want my makeup to look more "red carpet" ready, that's when I add the primer step.

I currently only wear powder mineral foundation, which is very primer-friendly. I've tried with liquid foundation before and felt like it just melted in with the primer and desired effect was not achieved. If you wear liquid foundation, I recommend you choose a primer that is designed to go along with said foundation, so they don't "clash". My concealer is still liquid and a lightweight primer such as Photo Finish (not the Targeted Pore one) and The Supernatural work very well with it.

I wouldn't go as far as saying primers are crucial to beauty routines, but once you find one that suits you, it can really make a difference.


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